As mayors, lobbyists and state government officials packed a Trenton committee room for a hearing on a bill that would abolish the controversial Council on Affordable Housing, Assemblyman Jerry Green offered words of warning: Nobody, he said, will leave completely satisfied.
"This is the first step … No one in this room is going to be totally happy," said Green (D-Union), chairman of the Assembly Housing and Local Government Committee.
He was proven right as witnesses across the ideological spectrum ripped into the bill. Gov. Chris Christie has pledged to veto the measure because it phases in a 2.5 percent fee on commercial development to help pay for affordable housing, last Wednesday calling it "the stupidest idea I’ve heard in a week." Nevertheless, the bill cleared the committee by a vote of 4-1, with one abstention, and now moves for a vote in the full Assembly. A Senate version that did not include the fee, supported by Christie, passed in June.
"If we eliminate the fee, where will we find the money (to pay for housing)?" Green said.
On Monday, business groups joined Christie in rallying against the development fee. On the other side, affordable housing advocates pointed to what they called a huge loophole: giving towns the option to zone 20 percent of their developable land to allow housing for people who make up to 150 percent of median income.
In Essex County, 150 percent of the median income for a family of four is $131,721, translating into a house worth $529,900, according to the Fair Share Housing Center.
"This bill conceivably could result in no affordable units," said Kevin Walsh, the center’s associate director.
The bill requires towns to make 10 percent of new development affordable — with some notable exceptions — instead of relying on a complicated formula overseen by Council on Affordable Housing. In her testimony, Department of Community Affairs Commissioner Lori Grifa described the current system as "rigid, arcane and virtually unintelligible."
Municipalities with more than 50 percent of students eligible for free or reduced lunch would be exempt. Towns that already have 12 percent of their units as affordable housing or have 25 to 50 percent of students eligible for free or reduced lunch would be able to determine themselves whether or not to set the 10 percent affordable housing requirement.
Developers who do not set aside 10 percent of their units as affordable would pay the municipality 3.5 percent of the development’s cost. The state would require the town use that money for affordable housing.
"This is a reasonable compromise that ensures that towns will have a diverse housing stock," Green said.
http://www.nj.com/news/index.ssf/2010/11/affordable_housing_bill_cleare.html
Sunday, November 28, 2010
N.J. extends property tax deadline for homeowners
New Jersey has extended a deadline for eligible homeowners to apply for a credit on their property tax bill.
The new deadline to file 2009 homestead benefit applications is Jan. 3, 2011.
About 1.5 million applications were mailed to eligible homeowners starting in early September. The Home News Tribune reports that about 865,000 were returned before the original Nov. 1 deadline.
Homeowners qualify for a partial credit against their second quarter 2011 property tax bill if their 2009 New Jersey gross income was $75,000 or less or if they're senior citizens or disabled with incomes of $150,000 or less.
The homestead credit program replaced a program in which qualifying homeowners were issued a property tax rebate check.
http://www.nj.com/news/index.ssf/2010/11/nj_extends_property_tax_deadli.html
The new deadline to file 2009 homestead benefit applications is Jan. 3, 2011.
About 1.5 million applications were mailed to eligible homeowners starting in early September. The Home News Tribune reports that about 865,000 were returned before the original Nov. 1 deadline.
Homeowners qualify for a partial credit against their second quarter 2011 property tax bill if their 2009 New Jersey gross income was $75,000 or less or if they're senior citizens or disabled with incomes of $150,000 or less.
The homestead credit program replaced a program in which qualifying homeowners were issued a property tax rebate check.
http://www.nj.com/news/index.ssf/2010/11/nj_extends_property_tax_deadli.html
3 ways to replace foundation vents
Q: This concerns the cement foundation air vents on a ranch-style house. The wire mesh coverings over the foundation air vents have rusted leaving an open space that poses a risk for various rodents entering the crawl space. How do I replace these wire vent coverings? The wire mesh coverings appear to be cemented into the foundation. --Paul F.
A: Unfortunately, you're probably right. Many types of foundation vents are installed into the stemwall as the concrete is being poured, and they can be tough to replace. You basically have three options, the first of which is typically the easiest:
1. You can cut out the old screen as close to the foundation as possible, and then build a new screened vent that will fit into the old opening. Use a moisture-resistant material such as cedar, redwood or pressure-treated wood to construct a simple box, then staple galvanized wire hardware cloth to the back side. Fit the box into the old opening, and seal it in with a bead of clear silicone around the edges.
2. If your floor sits on top of the stemwall, you may be able to install a new, prefabricated vent into the siding above the old one. This requires cutting through the siding and sheathing to create a new access hole into the crawlspace, and you have to make sure that there is no plumbing, wiring, framing lumber or other obstructions in the way. You also need to block up any underfloor insulation so that it doesn't cover the new vent, and then cover up the old vent with a foam block or other material.
3. You can have a concrete cutting company come out and cut out the old vent entirely, then cement in a new vent of the same type.
Q: My husband and I are new homeowners. We bought a 1977 townhome that still has its original furnace. I say that because we had to install an access door to even get good light to look at the furnace. I cannot find where the furnace vents are at to replace the filter, and am thinking about replacing the furnace altogether, as it looks deathly old. How do we go about finding out what kind of furnace we need in order to replace it? --Jill F.
A: The person you need to talk to is a licensed heating and air conditioning contractor. You can find them in the Yellow Pages under "Heat" or "Heating," but if you can, try to get a personal recommendation from someone you know. You can ask around among friends, co-workers, etc., and also check with your local utility company and your homeowners insurance company.
Between all of them, you should come up with a couple of names. I'd like to see you contact at least two of them, so you have different opinions and different options to consider, as well as different estimates to compare.
As far as the type of furnace you need, that depends on a couple of different things. You need to determine whether the fuel source will be electricity, natural gas or propane. If you just need heating, then you'll be looking at a furnace only. If you need cooling as well, you'll be looking at either a split system that provides both heating and cooling, or a heat pump.
A good heating contractor can give you all the options for location, efficiency levels, types of air filters, and other options such as add-on humidifiers. Compare your estimates closely, ask for local references of past customers, and verify the contractor's license number, insurance and past claims history with your state contractor's board.
Q: My sister has a louvered door in her basement (furnace room) and her dog got shut in and chewed two of the slats to the point they need replacement. Any ideas as to where I can find replacement slats? She lives in the Washington, D.C., area. She has been to the local chain hardware stores and they want to sell her a new door -- she's not hip to that. --Ted D.
A: Unfortunately, the slats in a louvered door are made by the door manufacturers or one of their suppliers, and are sized to fit the specific door. They are also installed as the door is assembled, and are trapped in slots in the frame members, which makes them difficult to remove and replace.
Since this is a door for a furnace room in the basement, which is louvered simply to provide air for the furnace, if you don't want to replace the entire door then my suggestion would be to cut out the damaged slats -- and perhaps a couple of additional ones -- and then cover the hole with a louvered metal vent, of the type used in gable-end walls. Or you can custom-make your own vent with a wooden frame and 1/4-inch hardware cloth, sized to fit the opening in the door. Either one will provide the necessary air flow for the furnace while still closing up the hole in the door.
http://realestate.nj.com/?classification=real+estate&temp_type=search&tp=RE_nj&tl=42&guid=130761
A: Unfortunately, you're probably right. Many types of foundation vents are installed into the stemwall as the concrete is being poured, and they can be tough to replace. You basically have three options, the first of which is typically the easiest:
1. You can cut out the old screen as close to the foundation as possible, and then build a new screened vent that will fit into the old opening. Use a moisture-resistant material such as cedar, redwood or pressure-treated wood to construct a simple box, then staple galvanized wire hardware cloth to the back side. Fit the box into the old opening, and seal it in with a bead of clear silicone around the edges.
2. If your floor sits on top of the stemwall, you may be able to install a new, prefabricated vent into the siding above the old one. This requires cutting through the siding and sheathing to create a new access hole into the crawlspace, and you have to make sure that there is no plumbing, wiring, framing lumber or other obstructions in the way. You also need to block up any underfloor insulation so that it doesn't cover the new vent, and then cover up the old vent with a foam block or other material.
3. You can have a concrete cutting company come out and cut out the old vent entirely, then cement in a new vent of the same type.
Q: My husband and I are new homeowners. We bought a 1977 townhome that still has its original furnace. I say that because we had to install an access door to even get good light to look at the furnace. I cannot find where the furnace vents are at to replace the filter, and am thinking about replacing the furnace altogether, as it looks deathly old. How do we go about finding out what kind of furnace we need in order to replace it? --Jill F.
A: The person you need to talk to is a licensed heating and air conditioning contractor. You can find them in the Yellow Pages under "Heat" or "Heating," but if you can, try to get a personal recommendation from someone you know. You can ask around among friends, co-workers, etc., and also check with your local utility company and your homeowners insurance company.
Between all of them, you should come up with a couple of names. I'd like to see you contact at least two of them, so you have different opinions and different options to consider, as well as different estimates to compare.
As far as the type of furnace you need, that depends on a couple of different things. You need to determine whether the fuel source will be electricity, natural gas or propane. If you just need heating, then you'll be looking at a furnace only. If you need cooling as well, you'll be looking at either a split system that provides both heating and cooling, or a heat pump.
A good heating contractor can give you all the options for location, efficiency levels, types of air filters, and other options such as add-on humidifiers. Compare your estimates closely, ask for local references of past customers, and verify the contractor's license number, insurance and past claims history with your state contractor's board.
Q: My sister has a louvered door in her basement (furnace room) and her dog got shut in and chewed two of the slats to the point they need replacement. Any ideas as to where I can find replacement slats? She lives in the Washington, D.C., area. She has been to the local chain hardware stores and they want to sell her a new door -- she's not hip to that. --Ted D.
A: Unfortunately, the slats in a louvered door are made by the door manufacturers or one of their suppliers, and are sized to fit the specific door. They are also installed as the door is assembled, and are trapped in slots in the frame members, which makes them difficult to remove and replace.
Since this is a door for a furnace room in the basement, which is louvered simply to provide air for the furnace, if you don't want to replace the entire door then my suggestion would be to cut out the damaged slats -- and perhaps a couple of additional ones -- and then cover the hole with a louvered metal vent, of the type used in gable-end walls. Or you can custom-make your own vent with a wooden frame and 1/4-inch hardware cloth, sized to fit the opening in the door. Either one will provide the necessary air flow for the furnace while still closing up the hole in the door.
http://realestate.nj.com/?classification=real+estate&temp_type=search&tp=RE_nj&tl=42&guid=130761
Monday, November 22, 2010
Overcome the Anxieties of Selling
This is the toughest time we've seen for home sellers, perhaps since the Great Depression. The early 1980s were grim, when interest rates were near 18 percent and buyers couldn't qualify for financing. Months went by when virtually nothing sold.
There is sales activity in the current market, but there are many more listings that aren't selling than are. There are exceptions: high-demand price ranges or neighborhoods where there are very few homes for sale.
Two examples in the San Francisco Bay Area are Oakland's Rockridge neighborhood -- within walking distance of the rail transit system (BART), shops and cafes -- and the $900,000 to $1.4 million price range for a 3- to 4-bedroom long-term house in nearby Piedmont, where the public schools are stellar.
Even if you're fortunate to own in a highly coveted area, you're selling in a difficult market. You still need to properly prepare your home for sale. Today's buyers want turnkey condition. And it must be priced right for the market.
Before deciding if this is the right time to sell, find out what your home is likely to sell for and what you need to do in order to realize that price. If you can't be realistic about the current market value of your home, stay put. Your overpriced listing will help sell other well-priced listings. But the experience will be frustrating and a waste of your time.
Pragmatic sellers who have a desire to move now need to make their house shine in comparison to the competition. Your real estate agent can help you by recommending good people to work with for painting, staging, yard work, etc.
It's wise to start preparing for a sale months in advance, depending on how much work needs to be done. You're not just selling your home, but merchandising the complete package. Some sellers give too little attention to the exterior, which adds to curb appeal and can extend the living space of your home.
For example, a vacant deck won't convey the same ambiance as a deck that is staged for sale with large, flowering potted plants, an outdoor table and chairs, and a chaise lounge. With these embellishments, the deck becomes an extension of the living space to use for entertaining or relaxing outdoors. It's like having an extra room.
Be creative with extra nooks and crannies. A plus room off a bedroom could be a nursery or home office. Be careful how you disclose bonus rooms. Don't misrepresent a plus room as an additional bedroom if it wasn't put in legally with a permit.
First impressions are lasting. If the neighbor's house looks ghastly, consider installing a privacy screen between your house and theirs, but don't violate fence-height requirements. If your neighbors' garage door needs painting and they can't afford to do it, ask your neighbor for permission to have the work done at your expense.
Don't skimp on disclosures. Lawsuits are on the rise in this market. Prices could drop before they rise again. Most people are under financial pressure and would be more likely to make a claim against a less-than-forthright seller today than they would have when prices were rising.
There's a lot of anxiety involved in selling today. Will your house sell? How long will it take? What will it sell for? It will be easier on you if you've done everything you can to present a good listing at the right price.
The market is always changing. You could find that you need to make a price adjustment at some point. If your house is wonderful in many respects, but is a less-conventional home than most, it could take longer to sell.
THE CLOSING: Buyers are looking for homes that they can stay in for 10 or so years.
http://realestate.nj.com/?classification=real+estate&temp_type=search&tp=RE_nj&tl=42&guid=131492
There is sales activity in the current market, but there are many more listings that aren't selling than are. There are exceptions: high-demand price ranges or neighborhoods where there are very few homes for sale.
Two examples in the San Francisco Bay Area are Oakland's Rockridge neighborhood -- within walking distance of the rail transit system (BART), shops and cafes -- and the $900,000 to $1.4 million price range for a 3- to 4-bedroom long-term house in nearby Piedmont, where the public schools are stellar.
Even if you're fortunate to own in a highly coveted area, you're selling in a difficult market. You still need to properly prepare your home for sale. Today's buyers want turnkey condition. And it must be priced right for the market.
Before deciding if this is the right time to sell, find out what your home is likely to sell for and what you need to do in order to realize that price. If you can't be realistic about the current market value of your home, stay put. Your overpriced listing will help sell other well-priced listings. But the experience will be frustrating and a waste of your time.
Pragmatic sellers who have a desire to move now need to make their house shine in comparison to the competition. Your real estate agent can help you by recommending good people to work with for painting, staging, yard work, etc.
It's wise to start preparing for a sale months in advance, depending on how much work needs to be done. You're not just selling your home, but merchandising the complete package. Some sellers give too little attention to the exterior, which adds to curb appeal and can extend the living space of your home.
For example, a vacant deck won't convey the same ambiance as a deck that is staged for sale with large, flowering potted plants, an outdoor table and chairs, and a chaise lounge. With these embellishments, the deck becomes an extension of the living space to use for entertaining or relaxing outdoors. It's like having an extra room.
Be creative with extra nooks and crannies. A plus room off a bedroom could be a nursery or home office. Be careful how you disclose bonus rooms. Don't misrepresent a plus room as an additional bedroom if it wasn't put in legally with a permit.
First impressions are lasting. If the neighbor's house looks ghastly, consider installing a privacy screen between your house and theirs, but don't violate fence-height requirements. If your neighbors' garage door needs painting and they can't afford to do it, ask your neighbor for permission to have the work done at your expense.
Don't skimp on disclosures. Lawsuits are on the rise in this market. Prices could drop before they rise again. Most people are under financial pressure and would be more likely to make a claim against a less-than-forthright seller today than they would have when prices were rising.
There's a lot of anxiety involved in selling today. Will your house sell? How long will it take? What will it sell for? It will be easier on you if you've done everything you can to present a good listing at the right price.
The market is always changing. You could find that you need to make a price adjustment at some point. If your house is wonderful in many respects, but is a less-conventional home than most, it could take longer to sell.
THE CLOSING: Buyers are looking for homes that they can stay in for 10 or so years.
http://realestate.nj.com/?classification=real+estate&temp_type=search&tp=RE_nj&tl=42&guid=131492
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Edison residents oppose putting cell tower near gas pipeline
Memories of March 23, 1994 weigh heavily on Alan Dudas when he thinks about the cell phone tower that could soon be erected near his Edison home.
Usually, when a cell phone site is set to pop up, those opposed worry they’ll be exposed to radiation or see their property values drop.
But the 49-year-old Dudas is most concerned that T-Mobile is proposing to build the tower less than 40 feet from a natural gas pipeline off Elizabeth Avenue.
“If the operators make an oops, we go kaboom,” he said. “We’re going to have another Durham Woods.”
In Edison, natural gas lines often make people think of one thing. Sixteen years ago, just before midnight on March 23, a 36-inch-diameter Texas Eastern pipeline exploded near the Durham Woods apartment complex, sending a giant fireball 2,000 feet into the sky that turned nighttime into day.
The blast injured 100 people, displaced 1,500 residents, destroyed eight buildings and caused $25 million in damage. One woman died of a heart attack.
That’s why hundreds of residents have signed a petition, asking the zoning board to deny T-Mobile’s proposal to build the cell tower near a residential neighborhood in North Edison, not far from Menlo Park Elementary School.
“Why even take that risk?” asked Janet Santoro, a former Carteret borough councilwoman who moved to Edison six years ago. “One mistake, and you can’t replace lives.”
Santoro noted that the danger still exists: In January, a PSE&G natural gas line exploded off Route 27 in Edison, leveling a doctor’s office and causing dozens to be evacuated.
Edison took precautions after Durham Woods to prevent another disaster, establishing an ordinance prohibiting any construction within 75 feet of gas lines, township engineer John Medina said.
The cell tower itself — which T-Mobile officials said is needed to improve weak coverage in the area — wouldn’t require digging. The antennas will be tacked onto an existing PSE&G high tension tower in a right of way.
But T-Mobile would also construct an equipment shed, 37 feet from a Texas Eastern gas line. To do so, T-Mobile would need the Edison zoning board to grant them a variance.
T-Mobile official Jane Builder said the company hires engineering and environmental experts to inspect all sites for potential hazards. She said the company would also dig by hand instead of using large equipment, under the supervision of PSE&G, Texas Eastern and Edison officials.
“We meet safety standards and local codes,” said Builder, T-Mobile’s Northeast senior manager of external affairs.
Edison’s mayor and township council members declined to comment on the tower, saying it’s a zoning board issue.
The township zoning board delayed making a decision on the tower after residents complained at its Oct. 19 meeting. The board is scheduled to discuss the topic again Nov. 30.
http://www.nj.com/news/local/index.ssf/2010/11/edison_residents_oppose_puttin.html
Usually, when a cell phone site is set to pop up, those opposed worry they’ll be exposed to radiation or see their property values drop.
But the 49-year-old Dudas is most concerned that T-Mobile is proposing to build the tower less than 40 feet from a natural gas pipeline off Elizabeth Avenue.
“If the operators make an oops, we go kaboom,” he said. “We’re going to have another Durham Woods.”
In Edison, natural gas lines often make people think of one thing. Sixteen years ago, just before midnight on March 23, a 36-inch-diameter Texas Eastern pipeline exploded near the Durham Woods apartment complex, sending a giant fireball 2,000 feet into the sky that turned nighttime into day.
The blast injured 100 people, displaced 1,500 residents, destroyed eight buildings and caused $25 million in damage. One woman died of a heart attack.
That’s why hundreds of residents have signed a petition, asking the zoning board to deny T-Mobile’s proposal to build the cell tower near a residential neighborhood in North Edison, not far from Menlo Park Elementary School.
“Why even take that risk?” asked Janet Santoro, a former Carteret borough councilwoman who moved to Edison six years ago. “One mistake, and you can’t replace lives.”
Santoro noted that the danger still exists: In January, a PSE&G natural gas line exploded off Route 27 in Edison, leveling a doctor’s office and causing dozens to be evacuated.
Edison took precautions after Durham Woods to prevent another disaster, establishing an ordinance prohibiting any construction within 75 feet of gas lines, township engineer John Medina said.
The cell tower itself — which T-Mobile officials said is needed to improve weak coverage in the area — wouldn’t require digging. The antennas will be tacked onto an existing PSE&G high tension tower in a right of way.
But T-Mobile would also construct an equipment shed, 37 feet from a Texas Eastern gas line. To do so, T-Mobile would need the Edison zoning board to grant them a variance.
T-Mobile official Jane Builder said the company hires engineering and environmental experts to inspect all sites for potential hazards. She said the company would also dig by hand instead of using large equipment, under the supervision of PSE&G, Texas Eastern and Edison officials.
“We meet safety standards and local codes,” said Builder, T-Mobile’s Northeast senior manager of external affairs.
Edison’s mayor and township council members declined to comment on the tower, saying it’s a zoning board issue.
The township zoning board delayed making a decision on the tower after residents complained at its Oct. 19 meeting. The board is scheduled to discuss the topic again Nov. 30.
http://www.nj.com/news/local/index.ssf/2010/11/edison_residents_oppose_puttin.html
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